LIFE IN RURAL FRANCE
part 1
POT-AU-FEU
SALLE de FETES
LE GAVRE
LOIRE ATLANTINQUE
Saturday 16 February 2008
12 – 1900 hours
A traditional meal in aid of the old soldiers.
Cost €14 each (£9.50 AUS$28)
We saw this event advertised in the local paper and decided to go along with Theo and Anne. The lunch was in aid of the “old soldiers” like the RSL in Australia.
We were one of the first to arrive at mid-day. The Salle de Fetes (Village Hall) looked very new, clean and spacious with a stage, and kitchen etc.
Let me explain that in this area the motto is “we don’t do worry, hurry or stress”, this also means that notwithstanding that the due time of arrival is 12 mid-day, people were still arriving at 1.30pm ( 1330hours here). 130 people arrived in flat caps, scarves and smiles.
It takes ages for a function to start because of the tradition of greeting everyone and I mean everyone in the room, by handshakes “Bonjour” and kisses for the ladies. Custom states how many kisses, ie if you are a relative or a close friend then you are kissed twice on each cheek, for me I have a kiss on each cheek, because they don’t know me. (Except when Colin signed to buy a new car then the salesman, who is related to Theo, gave me four kisses.)
All these people have known each other all their lives so have lots to chat about.
Most of the tables were set for 20 people, being ever practical the tables were covered with white kitchen paper roll, at each place setting were a dinner plate size shallow bowl, serviette, fork, knife and spoon. The cutlery was faced downwards, fork prongs touching the cloth. Some of the tablecloths had the groups name scribbled on it at the end, thus reserving the place.
Lunch finally started at 1.50pm – a Pot-au-Feu is fresh beef, unsalted, boiled in water with whole vegetables. The soup for the first course was the juice from this with thick chunks of bread floating in it. It was served in large bowls, probably three to each table.
Main Course – very tender beef, served on plates to be passed around with bowls of whole vegetables. The vegetables being donated by locals from their gardens. The horseradish sauce was very popular as was the sliced crusty bread, made by the local bakeries.
The next course was Camembert cheese and – you guessed it - sliced bread, it was very tasty though.
For dessert we had Breton apple tartlette. Theo said it was a petite tart, Colin told me it was a little tart to which we had a good laugh as did Theo and Anne when it was translated to them what a tart was in English.
All this was accompanied by - 1) red wine, port, brandy and lemonade, known as Sangeria. 2) a bottle of red wine 3) for people like me, water 4) black coffee. Each of these drinks was served in the same small glass. Finally a small glass of Calvados (local eau-de-vie – water of life). Distilled apple brandy,
Why so much bread you might ask? Because you use the same plate and cutlery for each course, the bread is to “clean” your plate and cutlery. Also it is tradition not to have side plates but throw your broken bread on the table beside your plate and still eat it. You do get used to it after a while, in turn we gave Theo and Anne a lesson in placing the knife and fork together if finished eating.
All this was interspersed by “entertainment” – if you feel like it you can get up grab a microphone and recite poetry or sing. This happens at all the “do’s”, it is interesting to hear them singing, whilst I can’t yet understand the words I do appreciate the music and the fact that they have got up to sing. Going by the laughter and the ooh’s a couple of the stories were a bit risqué. Theo was the first to get up and sing, I have attached a photo for you.
Finally, the tables were cleared and the dancing began, everyone got up to dance, it was good to see the oldies enjoying themselves including Colin and I.!!!
Sadly this sort of Fete will soon fade out, it is a Breton custom and most of the people attending have known each other since school. The next generation are leaving the area to see the world. For instance Theo and all his family before him were basket makers, he sits in his garage with his leather apron and clogs on making baskets to sell at the Fetes in August, the money will be donated to the church etc. None of his children are interested in basket making so another tradition will fade.
We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves with seven hours of food and entertainment all for €14 each and thought it value for money.
My first outing when I arrived was the Christmas Lunch at the local Chateau on the 11th December, it was the same principle and a lot of the same people but it was on a much grander scale, round tables which sat 8, tablecloths, waitress service and traditional Christmas fare.
Jeannie
