The Pyrenees 2008
Thursday 17th July dawned sunny and clear skies, perfect for
the start of our visit to the Pyrenees.
After passing over the river Loire and stopping for coffee etc. near Poitiers we arrived at our fist port of call, Fromantel near Limoges.
We had booked two nights at a Chamber d’Hote by internet named La Traverse and we were both surprised to see what a picturesque and well-kept place it was. The owners were a young couple that had previously run a caravan park in the UK. They had bought and renovated the beautiful French mansion house to perfection.
We were shown to our room and then greeted with tea and biscuits in the garden. Two more families arrived (Belgian). We all sat down to a very convivial evening meal, good food,good wine and good conversation.
During our two days in the area we managed to complete a few caches (our hobby of geocaching).
A visit to Limoges was disappointing, with the cathedral being closed for repair works and the Botanic Garden a total shambles. Limoges overall is not a “ must” place to visit.
On the Saturday 19th we moved on towards the Pyrenees,
travelling on the N21 rather than the motorway, thus passing through many beautiful areas including the wine areas of St. Emmilan and Bordeaux. To see acres and acres of sunflowers in full bloom was indeed a sight we will never forget. We were both very excited once the Pyrenees appeared on the horizon.
We reached our Chambre d’Hote late in the afternoon. Lac Bleu Retraite, which is owned and operated by Fay and Steve Toombs, a Welsh couple, who had been in France for 18 months and this was their first season of being hosts of the Chambre d’hote.
The house was situated at the very end of the valley of Lesponne, deep in the heart of the Pyrenees. The views from our windows were stunning. The mountains are covered in pine trees and being an Aussie I thought of what would happen in a bush fire but I was assured that with all the waterfalls and streams it would never happen. In fact there is so much water the residents do not pay for it. (Brisbanites would like thatJ) To this end Fay insisted on supplying bottle water for her guests to drink.
During the summer season the area is classed as pasture land, cows and horses are brought up for grazing
during spring and summer then taken back in winter. (My gardening friends would like that too).
As previously said the Chambre d’hote is the last house on the right hand side of the road. It is 10ks from the turn off on the main road, 10ks of narrow twisting and turning road with houses jutting out everywhere, it takes 25 mins of concentrated driving to get to the end. Notwithstanding this every morning people arrived in car loads from 6.30am onwards. We watched from our room the people changing into walking boots, backpacks etc. and off they went on the two and half hour walk to Lac Bleu, we also saw them returning in the early evening hardly able to put one foot in front of the other. We tried it one day but after two hours gave up and returned to eat our picnic lunch sitting by a stream just out of sight of our accommodation. We did however walk about 20ks that day.
EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
Firstly let me say that the purpose of this holiday was for Colin to see the route of Le Tour de France, we travelled about ten days behind the tour so the bunting etc were still in place. It was interesting to see the many back streets the tour had taken.
21st July, we travelled down the mountain to Bangeres du
Borro, where we did a multi-cache, we found all the clues and the place where the cache was but try as we may we could not find it. Very disappointing.
22nd July – our big day, we drove to the Pic-du-Midi (France
national observatory) it cost €30 each to ride up in the cable car but was well worth it. The views were spectacular over the mountains and Spain; (a few days later whilst walking up to our accommodation we saw the top of the Pic.) We then continued up Mt. Tourmalet one of the hardest cycle climbs in the Tour, when we reached the top Colin was like a child at Christmas, a grin from ear to ear and a glass of wine in his hand to celebrate his achievement (by car!!). However Jeannie was not very happy about driving on the extremely narrow road especially sitting next to sheer drop so we proceeded forward instead of turning back the way we had come. After several kilometres we eventually came to a valley which at the bottom was a skydiving school and glory be a restaurant, we stopped for lunch, watched the skydivers and wondered how the restaurant made a living situated in the middle of nowhere.
We still had another place to visit, this was a small town called Genarvie which we had been told had a magnificent waterfall. Genarvie is a very pretty place but was crowded with tourists on this warm and sunny day.
23rd July. . Today we tried the walk to Lac Bleu. It was of
course uphill with turns about every 100 yards, it was also large scree underfoot. It opened up a little later on but after two hours we gave up when we saw people higher up the mountain appearing only inches tall and returned to eat our picnic lunch sitting by a stream just out of sight of our accommodation. We did however walk about 20ks that day.
24th July – Showers and grey. Today we visited Lourdes, a
very crowded place, as you would expect. We saw the Basilica and the Grotte, I cannot understand how people can touch stone and expect miracles but then if you have enough faith anything can happen. I was particularly touched as we passed a group of ladies waiting to go in, suddenly a lady started to pray, all the other ladies joined in the responses, later they all sang, it brought tears to my eyes as I thought that sisterhood is the same all over the world. Of course I thought of my sisters I had left behind in Ipswich. A bit of humour, we were walking towards the Basilica, Colin had taken my photo, just as we passed the hospital Colin said ‘There is the hospital, it must be empty’.J
25th July, Our last morning in this idyllic place, we decided to
walk further on from Chiroulet to a valley which leads to Lac d’Isaby, we walked to the valley then returned home to pack and have a siesta. In the evening we went to the village of Pousac for the Fete Jambonade. It was great, a three course meal for €12 each and entertainment., the local brass band – all ages. We thoroughly enjoyed our evening and indeed our week in the Pyrenees.
26th July. We said goodbye to Fay and Steve and headed for
the coast somewhere near Bordeaux, where we had intended to stay the night but we changed our mind and decided to go straight home ready to watch the finish of Le Tour de France the next day. We arrived home at 8.30pm after a wonderful holiday.
Photos
Col du Tourmalet
